Expedition Aconcagua 21
Part I: Preparation, Approximation, Acclimation
Day 1: MENDOZA (760m)
Arrival at Mendoza (bus terminal or airport), transfer to the 3 star hotel with double rooms, swimming pool and air conditioning. Lunch. Afternoon: meeting with Guides and Expedition Assistants where we will talk about route details and to control equipment loads. Next we will fill in the forms for the admission to Parque Provincial Aconcagua. Later: dinner.
Day 2. MENDOZA - PENITENTES (2.600 mts)
After breakfast we will take our minibus to Penitentes, where we will stay at our Hostel-Mountain Shelter Penitentes (2600m). Lunch. Later we will organize the loads for the mules to take to base camp in Plaza de Mulas. Afternoon: trekking in the area. Dinner.
Day 3. PENITENTES (2.600 mts) - CONFLUENCIA (3.200 mts)
Breakfast. Departure to Quebrada de Horcones in our minibus, at Los Pioneros, park ranger’s shelter,there we will hand in our permits. Here starts our trek, going by Laguna de Horcones and then to Quebrada del Durazno bridge. After trekking in the valley for 3hs approximately we will arrive at Confluencia (3200m) where we will settle our camp, actually this is the place where our own services base camp is located and which will be ready for the mountaineers of the group. Our base camp has sleeping tents with individual beds, a kitchen tent, fully equipped, and a dining tent. Our Camp manager will await us with a special snack. Later: dinner.
Day 4. CONFLUENCIA (3200 mts) – PLAZA FRANCIA (4200 mts) - CONFLUENCIA (3200 mts)
After breakfast we will pack our rucksacks with our meal and water to start our acclimation trek towards Plaza Francia (4200m). This place is located at the bottom of the spectacular Pared Sur (south wall). This is the base campo for those who take this difficult route to the summit. During our trek we will go through the glaziers which melt into Rio Horcones. At the end of this trek we will be able to appreciate ice and snow canals and a natural 3000m wall. Return to base camp and dinner.
Day 5. CONFLUENCIA (3200 mts) - CAMPAMENTO PIRAMIDE (3600 mts)
Breakfast. We will cross Rio Horcones to get to Confluencia Superior. Then the path goes through a wetland area and from Piedra Grande (a huge rock, which stands alone in a vast area)the trail continues on the right side of Rio Horcones. At that moment we are in Playa Ancha, and going through Quebrada del Sargento Mas, we will get to Campamento Piramide. Here we will stay overnight to acclimate to this altitude.
Day 6. PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts)
Early breakfast. We will trek to Plaza de Mulas, this is the base camp of the Normal Route. From Campamento Piramide we will go up to the right to Refugio Colombia 4050m, (formerly known as Plaza de Mulas Inferior) and going higher taking Cuesta Brava we will arrive to Plaza de Mulas where our own full serviced base camp is located, and will be ready for the mountaineers of the group. It has sleeping tents with individual beds, a kitchen tent, fully equipped, and a dining tent. Our camp manager will be waiting for us with a snack. Later we will be served dinner and we will have recovering overnight sleep.
Day 7. PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts)
Rest and acclimation day.
Day 8. PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts)
After breakfast we will perform an easy trek to Cerro Bonete, or other, to work further on our body acclimation. Later we will get our equipment and food ready for the next day. Our guides will observe each member of the group’s acclimation state. Dinner.
Day 9. PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts)
Rest and acclimation day.
Day 10. PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts) – CANADA (4877 mts) – PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts)
Breakfast. Today we will start our climbing tasks. We will arrange our equipment and food necessary to go from Campamento Canada onwards. We will porter this equipment from Plaza de Mulas to Canada and back to Plaza de Mulas. Our guides will observe each member of the group’s acclimation state. Dinner.
Day 11.PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts)
Breakfast. We will rest and ultimate the climbing details. Lunch and dinner will be planned together with all the members of the group
Part II: The Climbing
Day 12. PLAZA DE MULAS – CANADA (4930 mts)
Breakfast. We will climb to Campamento Canada, where we will settle our camp. There, we will be protected from the wind by mountain walls. Dinner.
Day 13. CANADA (4930 mts) - NIDO DE CÓNDORES (5250 mts)
Going pass Campamento Alaska (5212m), which is an exposed platform also known as Cambio de Pendiente, the path goes up a short distance towards South before turning East. That is Nido de Condores, where we will settle our next camp. Looking to the South-West we can see the high wall of the Aconcagua, and a slanted area called El Gran Acarreo. Dinner.
Day 14. NIDO DE CÓNDORES (5250 mts) - BERLÍN (5.780 mts)
Breakfast. Departure from Nido de Condores (5365m) to Campamento Berlin (5780m). The trail goes to the East and then turns to the South arriving to Berlin where there are three shelters. We will settle our camp and have dinner.
Day 15. EXTRA DAY, IN CASE OF NEED.
Day 16. EXTRA DAY, IN CASE OF NEED.
Day 17. EXTRA DAY, IN CASE OF NEED.
Day 18. CIMA (6.962 mts)
Early breakfast. From Berlin the trail turns to the left to follow a crest and passes near another camp called Piedras Blancas. The path goes up and then turns a bit to the right to get to Refugio Independencia (6546m). This shelter was once the highest in the world, built in 1951. Above this shelter we will find Portezuelo de los Vientos (6570m), from where we will follow the trail that goes on one side of El Gran Acarreo, we will cross Ventisquero de Schiller and we will go into La Canaleta, main part of the climb. After reaching Filo del Guanaco, and turning left, we will finally step on the highest peak of The Andes: the Aconcagua (6959m) where we will stay for one hour if the weather conditions are favorable. Then we will descend to Berlin.
Part III: The Return
Day 19. BERLIN (5.780 mts) - PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 mts)
We will go down from Berlin to Plaza de Mulas. There we will get our equipment ready to be sent to Penitentes, then we will rest.
Day 20. PLAZA DE MULAS (4250 Mts) - PENITENTES (2.600 mts) - MENDOZA (760 mts)
Transfer from Penitentes to Mendoza. Stay at a 3 star hotel. Farewell Dinner.
Day 21 .MENDOZA (760 mts)
Breakfast and transfer to the airport or bus terminal.
Services included in the expedition
Transfers
- Transfer from Mendoza airport or bus terminal to a 3 stars hotel in our exclusive minibus.
- Transfer to obtain permits in our exclusive minibus.
- Transfer from Mendoza City to Penitentes in our exclusive minibus.
- Transfer to Mendoza at the end of the expedition, in our exclusive minibus of 14 seats.
- Transfer from the 3 stars hotel to Mendoza airport or bus terminal in our exclusive 14 seats minibus.
Lodging
- Three star hotel in Mendoza City (1 night at arrival, 1 night before departure)
- Hostel Penitentes
- Confluencia base camp: 2 nights, Piramide camp: 1 night in sleeping tents with individual beds located at our service camp.
- Plaza de Mulas: according to itinerary in our sleeping tents with individual beds, located at our high altitude service camp. (High altitude camps according to itinerary for two people)
Mules to Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas
- Transport of mountaineer’s equipment from Penitentes to Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas at arrival, and from Plaza de Mulas to Penitentes at the end of the expedition. Maximum load per person, per trip: 30kg.
Meals
All meals in the expedition are as follows:
- Full pension in Mendoza city, at arrival and departure.
- Full pension at Penitentes.
- Full pension at our permanent camps: Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas. The included meals are: breakfast, lunch dinner at our dinner tents in each camp. Also on going meals in the way to Plaza de Mulas and trekking Plaza Francia.
- High altitude food at high altitude camps: Canada, Nido de Condores and Berlin. The included meals are: breakfast, lunch, dinner.
Guides, Assistants and Cooks
- High experienced professional guides majored at Escuela de Guias de Alta Montaña (1 guide every 5 persons).
- One assistant guide every 5 persons.
- Cook and assistant at Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas camps
Communications
- Permanent communication with VHF, BLU and satellite telephones in Mendoza, Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas and high altitude camps.
- Satellite communication from Plaza de Mulas to the world
- Satellite internet connection for the expedition and email service for the mountaineers.
Luggage Custody
- Luggage custody in Mendoza, Penitentes and Plaza de Mulas.
Tents
- Sleeping tents with individual beds in our way to our camps in Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas; and two people’s tents in high altitude camps.
Porters
- Porters during climbing and descent. Our expeditions include porters who carry the normal equipment used in mountaineering: tents, food, kitchen elements, etc but not equipment of personal use. For those who need porters to carry personal equipment, our company can provide them.
Insurance
- Medical insurance: all members of the expedition are covered in case of needing evacuation and/or emergency transport to specialized hospitals in Mendoza.
- Adventure Activities Insurance: according to the requirements of Ministerio de Turismo de Mendoza.
Extra Days
- The expedition includes three extra days, with high altitude meals at base camp in Plaza de Mulas, to use in case of bad weather conditions, or to make a second try to the summit from Nido or Berlin, or for acclimation needs. These extra days can only be taken in Aconcagua, not at the hotel, Penitentes or Mendoza.
Provided Equipment
- High altitude tents.
- Full kitchen ware.
- MSR type ovens.
- UHS radio (for the use of guides and assistants)
- Full first aids kits.
Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas Camps
- These camps are quipped with electricity, tables, chairs and kitchen ware. Bathrooms with hot water showers. Luggage custody, radio communication BLU with Penitentes and Mendoza, and VHF radios for our internal use in Parque Aconcagua (permanent communication with our bases, park rangers and rescue patrol).
Services not included
- Tickets to and from Mendoza from outside the Province of Mendoza.
- Parque Aconcagua Permits.
- Extras in Mendoza, Penitentes and/or base camps.
- Meals not included in our expeditions.
- Charges caused by your decision of leaving the expedition and/or the itinerary.
- Personal equipment.
- Personal insurance.
- Additional hotel nights.
- Personal equipment portering.
Equipment
The expedition does not include your personal equipment (we provide you a list) Please, ask us about personal equipment, you can rent them or purchase them in Mendoza, thus avoids loss or extra weight charge in airlines. Several stores in Mendoza have special discounts for our clients.
Equipment necessary for our expeditions to Aconcagua, Normal Route
a) Clothing
- Light underwear.
- Long underpants.
- Underpants and turtleneck.
- Polypropylene or Capilene (cotton is not advisable)
- Fleece baselayers.
- Fleece layer pants.
- It is advisable to wear lateral zipped garments to allow ventilation.
- Warm hooded jacket with Duvet or Thinsulate interior.
- Gore-Tex jacket waterproof and breathable with hood.
- Gore-Tex, waterproof, breathable pants.
b) For your head
- Cap and scarf to protect your neck.
- Lightweight polypropylene or Capilene balaclava.
- Wool or fleece ski type hat.
- Headlamp with extra bulb and batteries.
- 100% UV goggles with lateral protection.
- Extra pair of your prescription glasses or contact lenses.
c) For your hands
- 2 pairs of light polypropylene or fleece gloves.
- 1 pair of mittens.
- Wool, fleece or Gore-Tex mittens protectors.
d) For your feet
- Trekking shoes.
- Mountain boots.
- Double plastic boots. Suggested: Koflach or Asolo
- Gore-Tex gaiters. Thick socks (3 pairs). Wool or nylon socks designed for cold weather. Thin socks: 2 pairs of skin tight polypropylene socks.
e) Technical equipment
f) Camping gear
- 70 L. backpack. With belt, pocket, etc. for crampons.
- -30ºC, 1 kg Duvet sleeping bag.
- Insulation layer, neoprene or Therma-rest type.
- Pocket knife, Leatherman tool type.
- Water bottles. Two 1 L. bottles and a 1 L. thermo.
- Sunscreen SPF 30-40.
- Sunscreen lipstick SPF 20-40.
- First aid kit.
- Matches or burner.
